Discover Our Denim
 


 

Amagumo


The Amagumo Selvedge Denim: Dyed with Black Beans
 

Whenever we create new fabrics, we think of ways to honour Japanese traits while bringing something new to the table. Japan has a long tradition of ancient dyeing methods, often dating back to the Edo era and we are delighted whenever we can incorporate centuries of tradition into modern garments. 

We proudly present you with our newest fabric: The AMAGUMO (雨雲) denim. This denim sits between the "Zetto" (14oz) and the "Earth" (18oz) and clocks in at 15.5oz. We engineered this fabric to fade quickly and wanted to incorporate a natural dyeing technique that is very uncommon and would yield unique fades. The weft features a very unique colour, dyed with black beans (kuromame). It sits somewhere between grey and blue, a shade of blue we don’t see too often and it will fade to a steely grey over time and give great contrasts with the indigo blue. 

 

Amagumo, Tanuki Jeans

 

Amagumo, Tanuki Jeans

 


 

When looking at the weft, the way it is speckled with bits of the very dark warp showing through. It is not dissimilar to staring into a stormy sky filled with rainclouds of varying depths of blue and black with highlights of a lighter blueish grey showing through. The fabric has a lot of depth and intensity to it, therefore we named it amagumo, the Japanese word for rain clouds. 

The warp of the denim is extremely dark. In some light, it is near black! The weave will initially be tighter than most of our denim and it can be difficult to see much of the weft through the warp. Both warp and weft are made of Texas cotton. Dyeing with kuroame dye is very different from indigo and the yarn is a bit thicker in the beginning. After some wear, this will settle down, the fabric will loosen up and the weft will peak through the warp's surface. The amagumo's vibrant colours make for an exciting addition for every denimhead's collection and add another shade of blue to the mix.

 

The Amagumo is available in our tapered and high tapered cut and as a type 2 jacket. 

Amagumo, Tanuki Japan

If you are a first-time buyer, use the discount code TRANSFORMYOURBEING for 10% off your first order.

 



Red Cast Denim
 


 

We introduced the original red cast denim in 2016 and it sold out quickly. The original denim master retired shortly after, and to honour his achievements we did not release the fabric again. However, the denim master’s son has asked for his father’s blessing and brought the red cast fabric back. 

 

To add some vintage feeling to our line-up, we wanted to create a red cast fabric for quite some time.  It took countless attempts to come up with the ideal denim to showcase the red cast properly. This fabric is very slubby and crisp selvedge denim, a fabric that demands to be broken in. It feels even a bit heavier than the 16.5oz that it is yet very comfortable to wear. 

 

The warp cotton utilized is a slightly longer than usual staple from Texas and for the weft, we used Australian cotton which is very smooth, almost silky. The low tension weaving combined with these very different yarns makes for a very textured fabric. We wanted a vintage feeling for this fabric so we rigged the shuttle look for a slubby and fuzzy, yet organic look. The hairy surface is unparalleled and will give way to some lovely vintage fades over time. This transformation is seriously one of a kind!

 


 

Like with most of our denim, the devil is in the detail. Red cast denim is produced by using extremely pure indigo dye without any sulfur. That gives a purple hue. For the optimal effect, the warp threads are rope dyed with six dips. The oxidation time in between dips is longer than usual to achieve the deep, red-tinged colour. When we produced the red cast in 2015, the weft was cheese-dyed beige, but father and son decided that for this iteration they needed to change things slightly. They found that the brown tones were overpowering the red, and he decided to change the yarn. They, father and son,  describe the reddish tone as a dancer and the grey weft as a stage on which the dancer’s movements are more visible, especially when the fading begins. 

 


The red cast fabric is available in our tapered, high tapered, and regular cut, and as a type 3 jacket. 

Redcast, Tanuki Japan

If you are a first-time buyer, use the discount code TRANSFORMYOURBEING for 10% off your first order.